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When compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.